Thursday, March 19, 2009

I'm going home

May your voice take me home for a few hours. Back to the places were I was young. Let your voice fill my eyes with colors, my mouth with flavors, and my ears with sounds of things and places I have known. Today I'm going home for a while. Thank you Mariza...Obrigado Fado.
http://www.mariza.com/

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

It's flat...lets go to Hawaii

After a flat winter in CA, I thought about spring in Hawaii.
I booked a trip to Kauai and I will pray for surf each and every day...Imagine I would get skunked....

Friday, March 13, 2009

Dawn Patrol II

Well...there was no real swell but the set waves were fun....



And at the very end of another session a Humpback came to say hi and bye.
I had never seen a whale as close to shore as that one...it made my day.

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Stubby Dawn Patrol

Got my Point Concept Stubby from Ryan Monday and a borowed center fin.
I'm so stoked...it's so gorgeous.
Tuesday 03.03.09, 6:30am I suited up at the usual parking lot.
Fast surf check: OK

At the point, the sets where breaking just behind the rocks. I went slightly to the left of the point and got a couple of nice set waves.
The Stubby paddles well and generates a lot of speed....but the powerless waves made it very hard work. The borowed center fin didn't let me bottom turn as sharp as the conditions were asking for - the set waves were closing out very fast.
As the tide dropped, the waves got hollow and the bottom very shallow...I took a last small ride to shore and went home. Santa Barbara hasn't seen one single decent surf day this winter...I'm so bummed. As I left the parking lot, Dave Johnson was suiting up.
Nex surf attack with a 3 fin set up is planned for friday 6:30am.



Monday, March 2, 2009

Balance Of Opposites

One should always try to perfectly balance the opposites...
Nothing like a hike in the mountains to let you know how much you need the ocean.



Life is a long and lonely walk you can only be prepared for, if someone shows you the way...